Hamish reflects on eating in Jaisalmer, India

'Within the northern state of Rajasthan is Jaisalmer - The Golden City. Midtown is a restaurant that sits at the foot of the great sandstone fortress, which presides over the town.
Whilst making your way across the square from the fort gate you are likely to encounter a variety of local business men and women plying their trades: jewellery sellers, fruit vendors, camel leather merchants, cobblers and fabric traders, as well a few nonchalant cows munching on leftovers from the restaurants.
Round the back of a shop selling an assortment of metal kitchenware, is the tiny entrance to the restaurant. Mouth watering smells eminate from the kitchen door as you pass on the way up. You step out onto the roof-top terrace which looks directly onto the fort, and suddenly the ascent was all worth it. The views of the fort from the restaurant’s dining area are magnificent - during the day it is a dusty shade of ochre, which transforms to a rich buttery gold by sunset.
It almost seems that the staff at Midtown have taken their inspiration for their Paneer Butter Masala recipe directly from the fort’s evening appearance. The dish is rich, creamy, and buttery, and yet the recipe oddly contains no butter. The blend of ground spices complement each other perfectly, and the paneer adds a meaty texture, which is perfect for vegetarians and practicing Hindus!
I hope you enjoy the dish as much as I did!'
Check out the recipe here -


By Hamish Baxter

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